August is coming…
Welcome to August, Wine Clubbers!
It is now 2025, and this marks the 1946th anniversary of the eruption of Mt Vesuvius that saw the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The date of the eruption had been traditionally marked as August 24th, based on a letter about the eruption written by Pliny the Younger; Pliny the Elder perished in the eruption. But, archaeology is always reinterpreting, and new evidence suggests that the destruction – and thus the devastating “Plinian eruption” - probably occurred on October 17th.
The excavations at Pompeii are of great archaeological importance. Why? It is so rare to have such great preservation for daily life and all of its activities: big, small, sacred, profane, mundane... We see tables set, money in bags, menus written on walls, taverna set with food and wine, graffiti, and more! A dog was found whose ash-covered body indicated a collar and leash. Sadly, that dog was unable to escape. But it is clear that most animals did escape, and no cat bones were found in association with the destruction. All the cats got away! The only cat bones I know of were found, appropriately enough, in a vineyard – though dating to neither August 24th nor October 17th of 79 AD; we don’t know when it died. Its bones were found in an excavation by Wilhelmina Jashemski.
Wilhelmina Jashemski was a pioneer in garden archaeology, and she used her skills to amazing results in the exploration of a large vineyard, winery, and wine shop within the walls of Pompeii. Through excavation, pollen and spore identification, filling and analysis of root cavities, and more, she was able to identify in great detail the layout of this vineyard in a prime location. She was able to reproduce the layout of vines and the stakes used to train them and to understand the number and layout of trees within and around the vines. She was also able to ascertain the drainage pattern of the vineyard. So, pretty amazing!
Her results jibed fairly well with the writings of Pliny the Elder, who wrote a lot about vines, wines, and winemaking in Campania felix – modern Campania. Jashemski was able to compare her findings from the vineyard to Pliny’s writing and understand the trellising and supports used to grow the vines. Pliny also wrote of the importance of soils on the resulting wine, and noted that the grapes for the best wine – Falernum - were grown in the volcanic soils halfway up Mt Massico (100 km north of Pompeii). Today, this terroir lives on as Falernum del Massico, whose wines are made with the local grapes Falaghina, Aglianico, and Piedirosso. It is likely that, in the past, Greco di Tufo was also grown.
All of this modern exploration and historical knowledge has led to the reinvigoration of Campanian wine, as well as Pompeian vineyards. Currently, wine is again being produced from Pompeian vineyards throughout the renaissance of the Villa dei Misteri by the Italian producer, Mastroberardino. Prior to that restoration, in 1978, a different Mastroberardino (Walter) had a falling out with his brothers and founded Terredora di Paolo – 60 km northeast of Pompeii. The Mastroberardino family had prime lands in Campania, in the hills of Irpinia, on which Walter founded the winery, which is named after his wife, Dora di Paolo. At Terredora di Paolo, the focus continued on the local grapes of Campania: Falanghia, Greco di Tufo, and Aglianico. Walter died in February of this year, and the winery is run by his children, Paolo and Daniela.
This month’s wines come from *that* Mastroberardino. Both are IGT Campania, from a variety of vineyards in the area.
Terredora di Paolo Falanghina Campania IGT 2022
100% Falanghina destemmed and soft pressed, with a cold maceration. “Refined” in tank for 4 months while on lees, and further rested one month in the bottle. The high-acid Falanghina likes a warm climate and volcanic soils, things Campania has in abundance! The resulting wine is fresh and clean with mineral notes and great acidity. Notes of pineapple, green apple, and lime – plus some herb-y goodness. So good on its own, but a little tapenade wouldn’t hurt!
Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania IGT 2020
100% Aglianico with 5-7 days maceration, 5-12 months in tank, rested another 5-7 months bottle. Aglianico produces full-bodied wines with good acid and tannin, and this has all those characteristics. The color is a beautiful ruby, and the mouth has ALL the cherries: black, sour, bing. Plum and blackberry can also be found, along with some toasted nuts. These wines are great with barbecue. I recognize this is very specific, but the wonderful tamarind and pomegranate flavors of some Iraqi masgouf (marinated and flame-grilled fish) would be so, so nice!
Now that I think of it… the Aglianico and the Falanghina are naturals for our upcoming wine dinner with Chef Nana Wilmot - Love That I Knead Supper Club, Georgina’s. Nana will be cooking up grilled specialties inspired by her native Ghana, and I will be pairing them with wine! Will I include the Terredora? Come see for yourself :)
This is a very special, intimate dinner (limited seating!!!) under the garden pergola, on August 1st.
Join us!
Pop open your bottle while enjoying this month’s playlist.
